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D.I.Y. Holga Digital (with Macro!)

Tag:digital clamp-on meter back light digital clamp-on meter | 37 Viewers| fervus 2009-11-21 07:20:58 Publish:

You've probably heard of Holga cameras before. You might even have one. Here's mine:



Made in China, the Holga features a 60mm lens, takes pictures on medium format film and is made almost entirely of plastic. Plastic elements, housing, everything. There are a number of differing opinions regarding this camera on the internet, but I don't really want to debate the pros and cons of it in my blog. Instead, I want to saw one apart.



That's right, we're going to saw it apart.

My favorite part about this camera is that it only costs $17. There's even a link over to the right there that'll let you buy it (hint-hint). The low price of the Holga let me buy one to shoot film with (here's a link to my holga film flickr set) and one to throw at skunks when I get cornered walking around at night. Seriously though, I bought an extra Holga, with the intention of figuring out a way to mount the lens onto my Canon 350d.

I can hear somebody out there thinking: "Why would you defile the pristine beauty and integrity of your $600 camera with this horrible piece of plastic?" If you don't know the answer to that, you probably aren't reading this, and if you are reading this and you still don't know, this picture might clue you in. I took that pic before I had figured out the bellows part of this mod, and I was just holding the lens out from the body and trying to cover light leaks with my hand. But now you won't have to do that!

Mounting the holga lens on a digital body wasn't entirely my idea. Other people have done it before. I just wanted to figure out a slightly different way to go about it. I also had a lot of help from my roomate Naiden who is an industrial arts major. Seriously, I asked him "How are we going to do this?" and he handed me a very sharp saw.

This version of the holga lens mod probably a bit harder to make and use than the other models, but I like the way it aims the light better, it's less uniform and has no leaks.



To make this Holga 350d monstrosity, you will need:

  1. a Holga camera (preferably an extra)
  2. superglue (epoxy would probably work better, but I'm impatient)
  3. a small amount of light-proof material (I used a black plastic sleeve from photo paper)
  4. about a foot of memory wire
  5. a body cap for your DSLR
  6. some electrical tape
You will also need some tools. Aside from the obvious ones like scissors, you'll need a saw, a dremel with a grinding bit and a small file (with a rough side & a smooth side.)

I apologize in advance for not photo-documenting this as I did it. Next time, I promise.

To start, I wanted to keep the black plastic screw-on mount that the lens was made to be attached to. I unscrewed the lens mount from the body and took the screw out that stops the lens from turning all the way off the body. After taking the lens off, I put the rest back together, just because it was easier to hold this way while I sawed.

If you want instructions on how to take apart the holga, they're here at this wonderful site. Remember, even though the photo with the saw earlier showed the lens on the camera, I took it off before I did this, because I didn't want to hurt it.

Once we're finished sawing off the mounting ring for the lens, we're left with a camera that looks like this:



Yours probably won't already have the tape on it (at least I hope it doesn't.) I added that to temporarily cover the holes that this process left while I try to figure out a way to convert this camera into a medium format pinhole with a shutter.

Take the small plastic ring and file it down shorter so that it only has four (4) grooves on the outside. I don't think it matters which end you file, I had to figure out the height by trial and error after I'd already glued it, so I filed the outside (or the top side) off.

The next step is to take your body cap for your dslr and dremel out a hole about an inch in diameter right in the middle of it. Here is a picture of the hole in the back of my body cap, post-assembly:



Then superglue the plastic ring to the outside of the body cap.

Safety note: Superglue fogs things up. This means glass, lenses, mirrors, etc. Be sure to glue the plastic parts far away from your camera, and make sure to wait an appropriate amount of time before getting this lens anywhere near your camera. These pictures are neat but not worth ruining your DSLR to get.

OK, we're almost done! Clamp the bits with the glue down, or set something heavy on them, and we'll get back to them in a bit.

We're going to make the bellows now. Take your memory wire and clamp it or tie it somehow to a tube about 1/4" to 1/2" wide, and proceed to wrap it around the tube until it holds somewhat of a conical shape, like a funnel. We want the smallest end to be just big enough to wrap around the thing that sticks back out of the front part of the holga lens and the largest end of this wire cone to be just small enough to get down into the mounting circle of the lens.

Get where we're going with this yet?

Cut out a piece of your light-proof material that will wrap around the cone and wrap it around the cone, then tape it down, but not too heavily! If you use too much tape, the little bellows that we're creating will become too bulky and will not fit inside the contraption. I ran into this problem when making them first. You have to use just enough to keep it together.

Using electrical tape (you can use glue later once you get everything working), fix the bellows you've just made down into the ring you glued onto the body cap. It should look something like this:



The lens has little plastic pieces in it that keep the lens from screwing in past a certain point, and this can mess up your focus. It's pretty easy however to just snap these off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I also used a heated paper clip to get as much of these things out as possible:



There's one final thing we need to change about this lens piece pictured above. The ring around the outside (with the grooves on the inside) is too deep. In order to be able to properly focus to infinity, I had to file down the sides of it. To get an idea of how much to take off, pry the little flat black plastic focus indicator piece off the outside of the lens and look at the groove it was sitting in. You want to pretty much exactly file until this groove is gone, and then even it out around the edges. The other option here is to very gently use the saw to take off that much of the plastic, but be careful not to hurt the rest of the lens, which sticks out further than our cut-off line.

At this point you'll have to tweak the memory wire a little and use tape judiciously, but the lens should fit into the top of the memory wire cone pretty easily, as pictured below, and should be snug enough to stay in on its own.



Now we have the finished unit:



I punched a hole in the lens cap to simulate vignetting. Experiment with different sizes and shutter speeds to get different effects. I found that exposing way below what my camera's meter thinks it needs gives me more of a gradient to the vignette, and often is a better exposure than the recommended one.

Be sure to clean this lens contraption out before you put it on your DSLR! I learned this the hard way, and I have dust on my CCD now. Which is not the end of the world, because the 350d has a CCD cleaning mode, which locks the shutter open so you can blow dust out of the sensor area.

And finally, here's the finished lens on my 350d!



Here's a link to my flickr set of pictures I've taken using this setup. Best of all, the entire thing collapses very small, so I can stick it in my pocket when I go out shooting as an alternative to my nicer, normal lens.

Because of the construction of the bellows, it is small enough to allow us to screw the lens onto the mounting ring with it folded up inside there, and focus the same way any other holga user does - we just have the added option of unscrewing it and using extreme macro mode. Note: I'm not sure about the focus length and depth required for any other cameras, as I only had a Canon 350d to test with. If anybody manages to successfully do the same thing for a Nikon or any other camera, let me know!

PS. Feel free to leave a comment and let me know if you have any questions, or if I failed to clarify something. It's almost 4AM as I'm writing this and caffiene only does so much for me.


Comments:

Hey Charles! Thanks for the kind words about some of my photos. Where are you going to school? At HSU? We should roam the city someday. I'm always down to meet inspring people. I love to learn and share shit about photography.

Anyways, I dig what you did with this Holga lens. I always have a holga loaded with some 3200 speed film or tri-x in my bag. I love those cameras, but I never seem to have time to get in the darkroom lately. I bought a Lensbaby, which kind of simulates a holga feel, except that its controllable. Somedays I love it, others I hate it. Feel free to hit me up anytime and we'll goof off and geek out with cameras.

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